June 2004-Restaurant review: La Vie en Rose

Dinning through Rose coloured glasses:
-An evening at Monsieur Laulhere’s French farm house provides world class food, service and ambiance.
by, Charlie Pecoraro
La Vie en Rose

In the 24 years that it has been in operation, La Vie en Rose has garnered 19 Diamond awards, 12 consecutive DiRoNAs (Distinguished Restaurants of North America) and has even been awarded one of the, “Best Places to Kiss in Orange County” (a much abbreviated list to be sure.) And making this, his 20th year as proprietor especially rewarding, Louis Laulhere (pronounced la laer) has earned the most distinguished award a restauranteur can achieve, the coveted Golden Scepter.
I would argue one of the most wonderful parts about “unchained” restaurants is that the owner can often be found on the premises. This scenario is more than likely to occur while you are enjoying a fine meal at La Vie en Rose where the ever gracious Monsieur Laulhere, is not only a presence in the beautiful French countryside decorated restaurant, he is a part of the experience. Having him there, floating around, taking care of customers and unobtrusively interacting with patrons makes the visit feel like going to an old friend’s home; warm, inviting and comforting, (the place taking on attributes of it’s owner).
We started out our feast with Escargots à l'Ail et aux Herbes (snails in a garlic herb butter) and Brochette de Crevettes Grand-Duc (grilled shrimp brochette with asparagus and truffle butter sauce), (mmm...truffle butter). My companions heartily approved of the snails, but I favored the large and tender butterflied grilled shrimp. Being that it was an appetizer, there were only three, but had there been more, it would have made for a fine entrée.
Also, before our meal, we were happily seduced into trying some of La Vie’s potages, (or soups). The Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée (French onion soup gratinated with French bread toast and Swiss emmental cheese) and their Bisque de Homard en Croûte (lobster bisque with Cognac and puffed pastry shell) were both mouth watering. I especially enjoyed the lobster bisque and the flaky-doughy pastry shell that came utop the generous portioned cup. However, about half way through the bisque, I started to realize, as is often the case when I must sample from everyone’s plate, that I was beginning to get full. I then began to eat more deliberately so as not to fill up too fast. Now, this deliberate act of eating, if viewed from across the room by the untrained eye, could simply seem like I was just chewing more slowly. However in reality... well, regardless of technique, I made it on to the next course.
Now those of you who’ve read my previous articles know that I have a dangerous penchant for good beef. And while I promise not to continually be reporting on the state of steaks in the local area, I found it irresistible, while at this fine cuisinery, and under strong recommendation, to allow myself a juicy slab. And please permit me to share with you that never have I enjoyed a more perfect steak. The filet Mignon cooked medium rare, was so succulent, so tender and so incredibly delicious that eating it felt as natural as breathing. It was as if the steak and I were separated at birth and Monsieur Laulhere, a host among hosts, was responsible for this Oprah-esque reunion. ‘Nuff said.
Amongst the other delicacies that we enjoyed, I was particularly fond of the roasted rack of lamb cooked to perfection and well complemented by it’s garlic and fresh mint sauce as well as the baked sea bass with fresh herbs and creamy Riesling Sauce. Man, tasty stuff! And to finish off the meal, we sampled some of the many gorgeous homemade desserts that La Vie has to offer including; a slice of their fresh fruit tart, a piece of chocolate cake with raspberries and chocolate pudding filling, and a sublime Grand Marnier soufflé which came piping hot after our meal (Upon reflection, I wish I had had room to try the chocolate soufflé to compare it with the others I’ve had, but that’s what return visits are for!)
Let’s put it this way; La Vie en Rose has style, elegance and is filled with the romance of the French countryside. She’s 24 years old and if she were a woman, I would slide a ring on her finger so fast her cuticles would catch on fire. My evening was simply wonderful and I eagerly anticipate our second date. Then maybe I’ll be able to comment on that kissing award.



Quick Three FYIs
1. La Vie en Rose is modeled after an actual farm house in Normandy.
2. La Vie is much larger than it looks with banquet rooms capable of handling parties of up to 100 people. (463 seats, 16,000 sq. ft)
3. The wine list at La Vie is not only one of depth but incredible breadth covering style, region, year and price. Not a compilation easily matched.



Coming next month!!!!!!:
Are you a master Grillsman/woman? Do you have a BBQ sauce that you think should be in a bottle? How about a side dish that is a perennial request of the whole family? For our July BBQ issue, we will be taste-testing hundreds of homemade sauces and side dishes and we want to see what you got!
So call up or e-mail to let us know when you would like to bring your vitals on bye the Chamber and you could win a brand new outdoor grille courtesy of COSTCO. Heck, I’ll even swing bye your house if you’d like. Winners will also get their picture in the August issue alongside their recipe, (if they wish to spread the love).